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Transmission Repairs: Water damage is not always obvious…

Water can find its way into an automatic transmission in several ways. The one you’re probably most familiar with is through the transmission cooler in the radiator You don’t have to be in the business long to become ac quainted with the “strawberry milkshake” in the radiator. But what can be even worse is when a tiny amount – sometimes less than a thimble full – finds its way into the transmission.

All too often, customers forget to flush the cooling system and replace the antifreeze. The term “permanent antifreeze” confuses a lot of car owners – … permanent … in this case, means… year round, not never needs replacing….

Three, four, five years. – acids build up in the coolant – ’til the transmission heat exchanger welds begin to corrode. It doesn’t have to be a big hole… in fact, most of the time the hole is so small that ATF won’t even get into the radiator.

But the antifreeze solution is not this obvious… you may not even realize that water found its way into your transmission. And even a few drops can be deadly to your automatic transmission. greater surface tension than ATF, and as the radiator builds up pressure, it forces the antifreeze solution through the pinholes or cracks into the cooler. Once there, it mixes with the ATF, and creates that milky, pink-colored sludge you’re familiar with. By the time the fluid reaches this point, chances are pretty good the transmission’s about shot.

And neglect’s not the only reason for the transmission heat exchanger to fail. Any time you have a liquid in contact with different metals, a chemical reaction takes place, known as electrolysis. Electrons carry atomic metal from one type of metal to another in a process very similar to metal plating. This can occur at brazed joints in a heat exchanger. And the heat in an automobile radiator makes it even worse – accelerating the failure.

As countless electrons flow away from the brazed joints, the joints weaken and pit. More and more pits develop, and the continual heating and cooling of the radiator stresses the weakened joints, causing microscopic cracks between the coolant tank and the transmission heat exchanger.

New fluid can actually cause water damage!

Just because you didn’t see any sign of water damage during a rebuild doesn’t mean you’re off the hook…

You just installed arebuilt transmission and flushed the cooler. Now the cooler’s clear, and the pump’s pushing fresh ATF – under pressure – through the cooler. Fresh ATF that’s loaded with active dispersants and detergents,

As these active ingredients flow through the cooler, they come in contact with those hairline cracks or pinholes. So even though the unit didn’t come in with a water problem, that water problem won’ t be long in coming, as fresh ATF washes away the varnish and sludge that blocked the crack.

And no matter how good a job you do rebuilding the unit, if you don’t fix the water problem, your rebuild won’t last. But a bad heat exchangers just one way for water to get in and destroy your transmission.

There are others.

One good pass through a deep puddle can soak the unit’s insides. Or how about the car stalling in a flash flood rainstorm – at the low spot in the road? And don’t forget when the kids decide to play “service station” with the garden hose!

Even the over-zealous car wash attendant with a steam cleaner can soak your transmission’s insides.

Here’s something that’s shown up a couple of times on VW’s and Mercedes – a bad hood seal, which allows water to find its way down to the transmission vent. The vents on these units sit in a valley, and when the valley fills with water, so can the transmission.

And while water can sometimes find its way into a transmission through the vent, a clogged vent can lead to water damage, too.

As the transmission heats up, any condensation that found its way into the unit boils off and turns to water vapor. That vapor is supposed to find its way out the vent, to keep the transmission from becoming contaminated. But if the vent gets clogged, the vapor can’t dissipate – instead, it turns the transmission into a kind of pressure cooker – an apt analogy, considering it cooks the transmission!

..you may not even realize that water found its way into your transmission. So there are plenty of ways for water to find its way into the transmission.

No problem, right? Just drain it out, and replace the fluid, right? Not necessarily! You’ve got to determine how the water got there in the first place, and take care of that problem – otherwise, as fast as you drain it out, it’ll be right back in. If it was the kids playing “gas station,” or you got caught in a flash flood, you might luck out… if you get the car towed to a shop and drain the fluid out before you start the engine! Once you’ve started the engine, forget it – it’s too late to save the transmission – you’ll have to overhaul the transmission to get all the water out.

GotTransmissions.com @ 866-320-1182

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Transmission News & Tips: Avoid Buying a Flood-Damaged Car

Automobile consumers may want to add hurricane and water damage to the list of things to look for when purchasing a used car. Of the approximately 2 million vehicles in the Gulf Coast region, it’s estimated that 250,000 to 500,000 automobiles were severely damaged by Hurricanes Katrina and Rita. It’s unclear how many of these flood-damaged cars could potentially end up being parted out and ending up in a recycle yard, or cars being repaired and resold throughout the U.S.

Vehicles that have been under water can have serious mechanical or electrical problems with the transmissions, which is one of the most expensive parts of the car, that may not be immediately evident. Unethical sellers may attempt to erase the physical evidence of flood damage or hide a car’s flood history by moving it through a state that doesn’t require this information to be recorded on the title.

According to CARFAX, there are a number of things consumers can look for to avoid buying a waterlogged vehicle unknowingly:

* Inspect the interior: Check the trunk, glove compartment and other storage areas, dashboard and underneath the seats for signs of sand, mud, moisture or rust. Check for frayed or cracked wires underneath the dashboard, and make sure all the gauges work.
* Examine the interior fabric: Look closely at the upholstery and carpeting — if it doesn’t match the interior or fit properly, it may have been replaced. Discolored, faded or stained fabric may indicate water damage.
* Test electrical components: Test the interior and exterior lights, windshield wipers, turn signals, stereo, windows, mirrors, seats and cigarette lighter.
* Try the heater and air conditioner: Make sure both the heater and air conditioner work. While the A/C is on, check for musty odors.
* Have the car inspected: Visit a trusted mechanic for an inspection before you purchase any vehicle

In cases where the cars transmission has been compromised with water and a need for a used transmission may be in the near future, it may be hard to detect. Always run a CarFax report on any car, new or used that has been through a flood or hurricane. It may save a really messy situation, because automatic transmissions are very water sensitive, so all the doctoring in the world can’t stop a pre-mature failure. Remember: all of the above problems that can show up down the road and leave you in a vulnerable spot.

My advise is to stay away from flood or hurricane damaged cars. The potential for any or all the above issues to come true is to great, and makes the car an expensive investment too. However if you have one of these cars and need a replacement transmission for it, GotTransmissions.com has a CarFax report issued for every transmission they sell, used, rebuilt, remanufactured and especially good used transmissions (We want to know the used transmission is not a flood victim). Call @ 866-320-1182.

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Where can I Buy a Low-Mileage Used Transmission?….

When the subject of low mileage used transmissions is brought up, I like to use as an example, a Dodge Transmission for a Caravan. Many opinions and options are available and we receive a lot of different input on the matter. I also get a lot of questions concerning used transmissions and how to choose the best one.

It is not that difficult if you read this article and use the company I recommend. Why do I recommend them? Complete and total satisfaction for all customers is why. The best way to start is with some education about how to choose a good used, low mileage transmission.

The main things to look for in a used transmission are the actual mileage on the transmission and the condition of the transmission fluid. And if it is the original transmission in the car. It is also nice to pull a CarFax report on the car the transmission came out of and see if there is anything you should know about the car that was not disclosed to you at the time of purchase. As a matter of interest one of the companies you may want to do business with does their own back history checking too.

GotTransmissions.com is one of the largest used and rebuilt transmission suppliers in North America. Being a large company and very ethical, gives them an advantage in what condition the used transmissions they can get a hold of are in. While doing their homework, first, in terms of locating the best source of used transmissions, they also take the time to pre-test every used transmission that is sold by their outfit, guaranteeing success for you, which ultimately means success for GotTransmissions.com. A Win-Win situation.

Instead of making numerous calls to suppliers that may be questionable, you can call GotTransmissions.com @ 1-877-268-064 and speak with a professional about your needs. Remember that the homework is already been done, assuring you of the best used transmissions for sale anywhere. What strikes me about the situation is that their prices are very competitive with the lower grade suppliers, which makes their products an even better value in the end.

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Where can I buy a quality affordable rebuilt transmission?

The success of buying a rebuilt transmission is largely due to choosing the best parts to use. We have spoken about hard parts like the pump assembly and planetary gears, and we have spoken on soft parts, such as bands, seals, gaskets and o-rings. The quality of the parts used is as much part of the overall life of your freshly rebuilt transmission as the tools and labor put into it.

T-35 soft parts

Supposing every thing was equal except the parts when a transmission is rebuilt, meaning the labor process and mechanic are the same and the machine work is on the money. In both cases the differences in lifespan of your rebuilt transmission might be 30,000 to 70,000 miles in the overall life of your transmissions. Assuming the transmission was installed properly and you use synthetic transmission fluid.

Do you think it is worth saving a few hundred bucks on parts at most, for losing of that much of the life of your investment in a transmission is rebuilt? It is not logical to think that way. I would rather buy one of the low mileage used transmissions than a poorly rebuilt transmission.

Part of a rebuilt transmission job is a rebuilt torque converter. If the rebuilt transmission you buy does not have a rebuilt torque converter, than the job is not complete, and start to run as fast as you can to a telephone and call 866-320-1182 and speak with on of the pros at GotTransmissions.com

At the end of the day, when you pick up your car, trust me, you will think you just bought a new car. You probably forgot how nice it drove while the transmission slowly deteriorated. With that in mind, you can sleep better knowing that you made a sold and smart decision by buying the best rebuilt transmission on the market, not the cheapest.

In reality the ‘cheapest’ transmission will cost more than the ‘best’ transmission, since the cheapest transmission will need replacing perhaps 2 or 3 times while the best unit will keep on ticking. Don’t forget to take good care of your rebuilt transmission, follow your maintenance suggestions in the owners manual.

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Where can I Buy a TREMEC TR 3550 / TKO Manual transmission?

This Tremec TR 3550 five-speed overdrive manual transmission was developed using state-of-the-art technology and is ideal for specialty sports cars equipped with high torque engines. Basically it replaces the Muncie “M” series 4 speed transmissions of the ’60s and 70s, which includes a Borg Warner T-10. Which is a clone of the “M” series Chevy Muncie transmissions. Obviously it has more than 4 forward speeds to meet the new demands of modern cars.

Tremec 3550 Schematic

Features:

* Five forward speeds with 5th gear overdrive provides extended ratio coverage, lowering engine RPM’s and improving fuel economy. (Available in .68 or .82 overdrive ratio)
* Tapered roller bearings on input, output and counter shafts increase torque capacity.
* Massive 83 mm center distance from mainshaft to countershaft allows for the largest most durable gear sizes.
* Specially designed aluminum die cast housings provides optimum strength-to-weight ratio.
* Steel input shaft retainer enhances durability.
* TKO models are offered with upgraded steel on select gearing, delivering maximum torque capacity.
* Internal multi-rail shift linkage system provides robust, positive shifting.
* Fifth speed synchronizer located on countershaft reduces gear rattle and shift effort.
* Multiple shift lever locations available:
o Rear – standard on all TR-3550 transmissions – ideal for Mustang applications
o Mid-shift location – ideal for pick-up truck retrofits
o Front-shift location – allows retrofits of custom-made cars and other Hot-Rod applications

The Tremec TR 3550 manual transmission is for sale in both used and rebuilt models. For information regarding purchasing a Tremec Manual transmission Call GotTransmissions.com @ 866-320-1182. Sign up for our blog and receive transmission information automatically in your e-box.

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Transmission Repair Shops not honest about Front Differential Whine?

Question: Is there such a thing as a “transmission differential” ? My dealership is telling me I’ve had problems with my Front Differential. They’ve confused me by first saying the two things were different, then saying they were the same thing.
I understand what the F. Dif. does, but not how it works with the transmission. If I were having a problem with “bearings and seals” in the F. Dif, should I expect a massive transmission failure?

If you’re curious about the background to this question, this is my sad story:

I have a 2001 Forester (automatic) that I bought used from this dealership in 2004. It’s been in fine shape, considering its current 130K miles. It’s a basic country commuter car that’s made a lot of 3-5 hour trips.

Since last August, any pressure on the accelerator resulted in a whine that grew in pitch as the car sped up. Three separate sources said “it might be your front differential, it’ll just get louder, don’t worry about it.” Three!

The sound did indeed become louder, until a new deceleration sound developed. Again, we were told by mechanics that this wasn’t a great concern. It’s just the front differential bearings wearing out. They suggested cutting the AWD for the summer to quiet the noise. They suggested the following repair eventually:

“Will need to remove to remove transmission to determine if front differential bearing are the cause. Estimate $975 P/L to remove transmission. R & R needed bearings and seals in front differential.”

Two weeks ago, this was the advice we were given by our dealership. We took one long trip with complete success and commuted 50 miles daily for two weeks.
On our last trip, we hit slow traffic, and while in those lower speeds (30-40), the car began to buck and shudder. While scrambling to get off the interstate, the front end began to bang viciously, and the front wheels periodically locked. Thus, the “exploded transmission” (their words).

What’s got my goat is that until now, my dealership mechanic has only expressed modest concern. After towing the car back to them, they expressed great surprise and said it was “incredibly rare.” Now that we’re taking our repair elsewhere, they say it was what they expected all along. (Naturally.)

We’ve only been given information concerning the front differential. No warnings concerning actual transmission. I’m not a car person. Was I expected to understand they are the same thing?

From my limited readings and conversations, it did not appear that a modest problem with a front end differential could result in an exploded transmission.
Was I horribly naive?

My Comment: It sounds like you needed to be better prepared and educated. It sounds also like the service folks were not so sure what was going on either. Every thing you mentioned in your question should have been explained to you better, no matter how long it takes. You got a bunch of gaga from people who want your money more than they want you as long term customer.

Educated customers understand the situation they are in better when the service people take the time to present the problems in terms you understand, no matter how long it takes.

In certain situations, I supposed a bad front differential could cause a transmission to explode. If you were in AWD (all wheel drive) mode and the differential locked up, it is possible to damage the transmission. In order to achieve AWD, which is the same as a 4×4 (four wheel drive) for all practical purposes, the vehicle has to have a transfer case of some sort or a power splitter that splits the output generated by the transmission to the rear differential and the front differential at the same time.

I can’t see the vehicle so I really can’t comment on what the problem is and why it happened. What you need is an honest shop that will locate the problem and why it occured. The next time someone says not to take a problem to seriously, get another opinion. Never sign an estimate before the vehicle has the offending component removed and torn down and can see what is wrong. Telling you it will cost $xxx.xxx is a setup to allow them to remove your transmission and charge you more after they ‘got you’. No way you can fix a differential or transmission for $975.00.

Obviously you would have saved a bunch of money, time and aggravation if the dealer had told you up front that making the repairs now will save you a bunch of time, money and aggravation. At least you would have had a choice.

My suggestion is to buy the component/s that failed from a reputable transmission supplier that will give a nationwide guarantee on the products. You can take my word for it and save a bunch of headaches by purchasing your rebuilt Subaru transmission or whatever driveline component from a well established business.

GotTransmissions.com has the transmission or driveline component in inventory to ship immediately from one of their many networked locations. Every transmission that leaves their store is pre-tested for guaranteed satisfaction.

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Transmission Repair Shops are not all the same..

In the repairs and transmissions business, there is a lot of room for the shop to, well, to be dishonest. Some transmission shops in my area are trustworthy and very good at what they do. Now let’s define what is good, and what is bad.

Just as I’ve stressed throughout this blog, you need to find someone you can trust and believe. You will probably only set foot in the transmission repair shop once during the life of your car. Thank God for that. Most car transmissions are made to last the life of the vehicle if properly maintained and serviced regularly. Most automatic transmissions have a filter that should be replaced, and the fluid changed periodically. Check the owner’s manual for service interval, but a good rule of thumb is to change the filter and the fluid every 20,000 to 30,000 miles under normal conditions.

What are normal conditions you ask? The owners manual will usually list what they feel is normal and severe driving conditions in the scheduled maintenance section of the manual. I have found that the term “severe driving condition” usually refers to having the air conditioning on while the engine is running.

The auto manufacturers do a great job at protecting their rear ends from lawsuits, and will sometimes be a little too protective, so also ask your auto repair mechanic for his opinion. If you are in need of transmission work, you should ask your regular repair shop if they do transmission repairs in house or subcontract the work to another shop. If your regular repair shop is willing to send the car to their transmission repair shop, let them do it for you.

My shop does do automatic transmission repairs in-house. Customers have used my transmission repair shop for over 25 years, and for the most part have had good experience.

The customer who has been down the transmission shop road before knows he/she does not want the hassles.

Our transmission repair shop will always cooperate in a questionable warranty situation. If you are calling around for price quotes on transmission work, I wish you luck. I have called around my area to check out what the competition is doing, and even I cannot figure out what these guys are doing. Especially when it comes to transmission work- do not go on price alone.

Not until your car is in the transmission shop and your transmission is on the floor and torn apart in many pieces can you get an exact total. I can tell you, after many phone calls in my area, there is a big difference in pricing, almost double in some shops! Once these guys get your transmission on the floor and you signed that work order, you are at their mercy. I really like talking to the transmission shops that were honest and up front about their pricing, and what they would probably find inside the transmission of my 90,000 mile car that had never been serviced and had been making this strange noise for the last couple of weeks.

If it is going to cost $1,400 dollars, tell me now. Do not sway me in at $800 dollars and work me up to $1,600 dollars later. This is what usually happens. If you need transmission work, get the worst-case scenario up front so you will not be disappointed in the end. Things to look for at a transmission repair shop: Look in the parking lot for vehicles that appear to be abandoned. I always wonder how many of these cars came in on those inexpensive loss-leader ads, and the final bill ended up being so much that the owner had to forfeit ownership of the car-or just left it rather than pay.

What is the average age of vehicle in the parking lot? If most of the cars are 10 to 15 years old, their mechanics might not be qualified to work on your newer model. I want my mechanics to be experienced with cars just like mine. Do you see any company vehicles that you recognize? Companies that are well established usually have a fleet manager who is in charge of maintaining the company’s vehicles. Do those companies have a good reputation in the community? Do they also perform general auto repairs?

My best advice to you when it comes to transmission replacement is to call the specialists at GotTransmissions.com @ 866-320-1182.

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Heavy Duty Truck Transmissions for Sale..

Common Problem with Trucks of all Brands: My truck running great as usual, never had a problem with it before, all of a sudden it started to smoke and quit moving. After limping off the road, all my customer could see was all of the automatic transmission fluid was gone. Explaining the smoke. Transmissions can’t smoke like an engine, but when a transmission dumps 3 or 4 quarts of fluid on the hot exhaust pipe, it smokes and can catch fire also. It also gets spread all over the bottom and back of the vehicle. With that in mind, it is time to call AAA or a tow truck and have your vehicle towed to a competent transmission shop for a diagnosis.

Lets say it is a 1997 Dodge Ram Pick up truck with the diesel engine and a 46RE automatic transmission. The 46RE is a heavy duty Dodge truck transmission and is known for puking automatic transmission fluid out the front pump seal when it’s working hard in the hot weather. Simply put, the cooling system is the culprit in this situation. This article is not about cooling system repairs or updates, which is the cure for the front pump leakage problem, but it is about choices.

When a transmission spews the fluid in a unceremonious manner all over the road, it means that the front pump seal at a minimum is bad and no longer is ‘holding fluid’. Why is this you ask? Because the transmission looses most of it’s cooling ability under heavy loads, and wide open throttle, and eventually, at the wrong time, the seal starts to lose transmission fluid like a screen-door in a submarine leaks water. The problem is correctable with a good update kit and an add on auxialiary transmission cooler.

The transmission has to be removed to repair a front pump leak, and you already have been told that the transmission shop has to remove the transmission to fix the leak as well as inspect the transmission for damage. There is a good chance the transmission has some other wear in it, or enough wear to justify a Dodge replacement transmission. With that in mind, depending on how much wear and what is worn, a decision has to be made on how you want to fix your truck. Fix the current transmission, buy a used transmission or have a rebuilt transmission installed in the vehicle. Everything depends on what your intentions for the vehicle are. Don’t cheat here by buying the cheapest transmission available.

My suggestion will revolve around the fact that most of the time this happens when: A. It is a work truck carrying lots of weight, B. The fluid is burned from getting too hot all the time, taking the elasticity out of the front seal, or C. The front pump has failed. It is made of aluminum, which is a soft metal.

The bottom line is that if you do nothing other than drive regular errands and drive in a normal manner, at least make sure you buy a rebuilt transmission that is updated, not to over heat under heavy load conditions. If this is a commercial truck, which is usually overloaded with just the tools and equipment on the truck, it is time to get serious. BTW: The pumps we used in our shop were rebuilt with a metal sleeves, where the gears wear the aluminum pump body, thus preventing a repeat situation.
GotTransmissions.com @ 866-320-1182

Getting serious involves purchasing a rebuilt transmission with the most effective update kit installed and add a couple of external auxiliary transmission coolers to the transmission cooling system. Finally, use or request full synthetic automatic transmission fluid as a refill. Synthetic transmission fluid is like icing on the cake. It allows your rebuilt transmission to last it’s longest and function it’s best. Don’t forget to ask about the warranty, it is usually a good indicator of how much confidence the transmission supplier has in it’s product. Meaning a short term one year warranty does not mean much, when you can get a long term 3 or 5 year warranty. Now your talking.

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Manual Transmissions: just put a full clutch kit in my wifes…

Here is a question or problem that I got asked a lot as the owner of of a transmission rebuilding and repair shop for 25 plus years. It always happens when someone who does not have knowledge or tools (and does not respect the ability of a good mechanic, I mean would you do your own heart surgery at home with no practice or text book or equipment) to save a few bucks? Failing to have a factory repair manual and not being able to read and comprehend directions is not a good way to start.

Question/Problem: just put a full clutch kit in my wifes saxo 1.1 and release bearing is making a squeeling noise when clutch is depressed, otherwise it works ok. I got the cheapest cluch kit off ebay as we are selling it within a couple of weeks. I’m hoping the noise will go away as I don’t want to take the box off again. I’ve never put a new duff bearing on before, is that what I’ve got?

Solution: First off, get a new clutch from a reputable auto parts store. Buying cheap parts is the best way to spend more money in the long run. It really never fails to amaze me at how many people buy junk, cheap or used parts for their car and can’t figure out the problem. In fact, it seems obvious to me that someone buying a cheap clutch off of E Bay probably has no idea on how to replace a clutch in the first place. Would you buy the cheapest heart repair kit while you do your own heart surgery?

The bottom line as far as I’m concerned, you approached this problem all wrong and wasted a bunch of money. And FYI, if it “just goes away” you are in big trouble, believe me. You would actually have saved money by doing it ‘right‘ the first time. To tell you the truth, you may have bought a bad or marginal clutch, since you bought a cheap one, BTW, what is a duff bearing? Is a pilot bearing? Quality new clutch kits have all the parts in them, including a new duff or pilot bearing.
My suggestion is to take the car to a qualified repair shop and ask for a written estimate, and don’t take car repairs lightly anymore. You wouldn’t go to walk in medical clinic for a hip replacement, well basically that is what you just did.

More information can be found in our Blog, ask me a question or comment in the comment box, or call GotTransmissions.com @ 866-320-1182 for all the free info you want.

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Transmission Repairs:I recently drove my friends 1998 Honda CRV….

I noticed this Honda transmission problem on The Mechanics Lounge forum and felt like it is a worthy question that deserves a logical answer.

Problem: I recently drove my friends 1998 Honda CRV. I parked it, turned the car off, went inside, and when I started it again, I couldn’t shift it out of park. I put it back it park (or so I thought) and turned the car off. When I took my foot off the brake, it started to roll forward. Then I tried to turn the car back on, but it wouldn’t respond. It is now sitting in neutral (or whatever) in my driveway with the parking brake on and rocks wedged under the wheels to keep it from rolling. Does anyone know what the problem might be? I tried shifting/turning the car on while turning the wheel and pumping the brakes, but the it seems to be stuck. I also can’t use the shift lock release because the key will not come out of the ignition. Any help would be appreciated..

Most Likely Problem/s:
1. Broken shifter cable. since it is easy to check, make sure the cable is not broken, unhooked or kinked.
2. I don’t have my automotive computer program here, but their may be a blown fuse that allows the shift lock mechanism to lock and unlock.
3. Possibly, that the ignition switch is broken ( Quote: I also can’t use the shift lock release because the key will not come out of the ignition), Usually it won’t turn, which is an indicator that the ignition switch is internally damaged.
4. The shifter mechanism is damaged
5. the transmission shift shaft and assembly is damaged or jammed.

Obviously I’m guessing. No diagnosis can be made until a qualified transmission expert examines your car. If you have no aptitude for auto mechanics and don’t want to get greasy than find a reputable repair shop and let them diagnose the problem. Don’t forget to sign an invoice requesting an estimate before work starts.

Regardless of what may be causing the problem, forums are not always the best palace to get certain questions answered. Reason being that highly technical questions and odd questions or a problem such as yours have to be looked at by a professional transmission mechanic. A large amount of people throwing answers in your face are not even mechanics. They are just suggesting that you swap parts until it is fixed. A very expensive and slow way to fix a modern car.

If you were to need a replacement transmission or more transmission advise, ask me in the comment box or call GotTransmissions.com @ 866-320-1182 and speak with a transmission expert.

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