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TPS Transmission Code: Get your Transmission Fixed Now

The TPS (throttle position sensor) is a switch that attaches to the outside of the fuel injection body on the engine. It became more complicated and important when computerized transmissions were introduced to the automotive world. In a certain sense, it is attached to your foot by way of the throttle cable or newer cable-less systems on the more modern cars. When ever you move the accelerator, the TPS move

The TPS is one of the main communication devices or inputs to the transmission. Since it is essentially attached to your foot, when you press the gas pedal hard, it tells the transmission to shift later and a bit more firm. If you put the pedal to the metal, it tells the transmission to downshift, it is a very smart device.

A TPS gets quite a bit of activity, as you can imagine. They cause some unusual transmission problems, to say the least. In most cases it will turn the Check Engine Light on. If it does not turn on, and your transmission starts to act weird, take it to a qualified transmission shop and have your car diagnosed. A TPS beats a rebuilt transmission.

I don’t want get into, nor do I think it is relevant to the subject, but the TPS has many more duties to perform than giving your transmission orders. The bottom line is the TPS does wear out and causes unusual problems with the engine and transmission. Don’t take a chance, if your engine lite comes on and your car starts to run poorly, it’s time to have a professional mechanic take a look.

Don’t put yourself in a spot where your transmission needs to be replaced. It can happen, trust me. If the need occurs for a high quality replacement transmission, call GotTransmissions.com @ 866-320-1182.



Transmission Codes have to be diagnosed soon..

Question: i have an 04 maxima that is shifting hard, especially when the car is driven for a little bit there is a bump every time the gear shift, there is a couple of check engine codes all relating to a bad tps (P1122, P0223, P0123) and somone told me that bad TPS will cause transmission to shift hard, but i find that hard to believe, is this true?

i read a couple articles online and from my understanding that if the tps is bad it will have hesitant shifting or it would little shaky like if there was a misfire but i didnt find anything about hard shifting.

btw i already change the transmission oil with the specified nissan oil.

Answer: Hears what is going on, your electronic throttle assembly is malfunctioning. It is sending two separate throttle sensors those readings. For sensor #1 (p0123 and p0223) that signal is not correct. Also P1122 is the code for ETC electronic throttle control?

Did some one clean the throttle chamber with carb cleaner and remove the gunky carbon? This changed the position of the throttle position sensor. The transmission control unit has re-learned and can set a code like that. However after the throttle chamber is replaced or cleaned a idle re-learn must be performed. I would suspect your extended warranty will pick up the price of the throttle chamber and labor for the learning procedure.

Use only Nissan certified new or re manufactured throttle chambers if available. Note only a few technicians know how to reset the idle learn generically. Nissan Uses Consult 2 and Consult 3 scan and computers to perform this procedure.

I doubt that the codes your getting will cause hard shift but do get the problem fixed because driving in Fail-Safe 5 degrees throttle opening at 25 to 30 miles an hour is not fun or good for the transmission.

Eliminate the codes and go from there. If you need a replacement transmission call: GotTransmissions.com @ 866-320-1182



Volvo Transmissions for Sale: AW50-42LE…

The Volvo AW50-42LE transmission is a 4-speed overdrive electronically controlled
automatic transaxle. It is manufactured by Aisian /Warner Transmission Company. The Transaxle consists of lock-up torque converter, oil pump, 3 planetary gear sets, clutch and brake units, accumulator
pistons, valve body and 4 electronic valve body solenoids.

Based on the philosophy of “Quality First,” the Aisin Warner Group offers a wide lineup of products covering almost every automobile-related field, including transmissions, body, brake & chassis, engine and information related products.

Valve body with solenoids and Transaxle Control Module (TCM) are used for controlling transaxle operation. Solenoids are controlled by the TCM.

TCM receives input signals from various inputs and sensors to determine transaxle shift points and torque converter lock-up. Components consist of mode selector switch, throttle position sensor, engine speed (RPM) sensor, vehicle speed sensor, gear position sensor, transaxle oil temperature sensor, brake switch and kickdown switch.

The transaxle is equipped with a mode selector switch. Switch is used for normal, high performance and winter driving conditions. Transaxle is also equipped with a shift lock and key interlock system.
Shift lock system prevents shift lever from being moved from Park position unless brake pedal is applied. In case of malfunction, shift lever can be released by depressing shift lock override button, located near shift lever.

It is easy to see how complicated and integrated the transmission is connected with the entire cars electrical system. Considering the difficulty to install a replacement transmission in a Volvo, buying a good used transmission is of the utmost importance. The used transmissions sold by GotTransmissions.com are put through a rigorous pre-testing procedure that insures you are purchasing a used transmission that works properly.

Call GotTransmissions.com @ 866-320-1182.



Saab Transmissions: Used Transmissions are a perfect choice..

Saab’s are nice cars, especially for drivers in the Northern areas of the United States. They have good transmissions, and a loyal community of enthusiastic mechanics to support your needs. You may pay more to maintain your Saab than you will for many other vehicles, but for most drivers, their smooth handling, safety, and gas mileage of makes this worthwhile. Simply put, like with any other vehicle, the wonderful relationship can quickly turn sour if an transmission failure occurs.

What do you do? Do you search for a remanufactured transmission? Do you spend time pouring over used engines? That’s what this article is about. We want to give our readers the information they need to solve a bum situation with their Saab transmissions, and get them back on the road ASAP.

Let’s establish why used transmissions are a better choice for Saab’s than remanufactured transmissions There are two main reasons, both of which are hugely important. First, price. The price on a used Saab transmission is going to be much, much lower than the price on a rebuilt Saab transmission. Secondly, if you buy a low mileage used transmission for your Saab, the quality will be much higher. The most prolific Saab transmission remanufacturers are getting rarer each year, and quality is questionable in many cases. When you buy a low mileage Saab used transmission you are getting factory original parts with very low wear and mileage– not reconditioned parts mixed with new parts.

Based on the difficulty of installing a transmission in a Saab, it is in everyone’s best interest to get a pre-tested certified used transmission. Trust me, Saab transmissions are one of the hardest transmissions to install of any car.

Once the facts are established that you can save a lot of money on a good used Saab transmission, knowing who to deal with is of utmost importance. There are excellent companies selling used transmissions with great quality control systems in place, such as equipment to pre-test and certify that the transmission is in good shape all around. There are also companies who take advantage of people who are in a bad spot. These bad companies will sell transmissions that aren’t suitable for installation and would better be used as a boat anchor.

One of the companies who sells pre-tested and certified used transmissions is GotTransmissions.com. Providing excellent warranties and terrific customer service. Call 866-320-1182 for more information or read more of our blog and become an educated consumer.



Unattended warning signs can lead to rebuilt transmissons..

You may be reading this article because you suspect that something is amiss with the automatic transmission in your car. Often times, people experience what they feel may be a transmission concern but are unsure. Take my advice; it is far better to address these problems early on than to let them evolve into a catastrophic transmission failure.

Because the automatic transmission is the most complex piece of machinery in your entire vehicle, no way a list of warning signs be all-inclusive. With that said, here are the 7 most common warning signs that have been observed by transmission repair specialists over the years. These are the early warning signs that you want to look out for:

1) Fluid Leakage. That small pool of pinkish oil that you see when you move your vehicle from its parking spot in the morning is a sign of trouble. Transmissions can leak from nearly 20 different external seals- some are very simple to repair, while others require more involved service procedures. In any case, the idea is to have the vehicle looked at right away by a qualified transmission repair shop because, much like an engine that gets low on oil, a transmission that is low on fluid can fail completely in very short order.

2) Washboard feeling at 45 to 60 mph. Sometimes a shaking or bucking sensation is experienced, especially at highway speeds. While this may be an issue of poor engine tune, it could also be a malfunction in the torque converter. Take it to an expert that can tell the difference and diagnose it for you.

3) Delayed drive or reverse. A noticeably longer than normal hesitation for your transmission to engage a gear once the shifter is put in “D” or “R” is another sign of a transmission malfunction. These delays can be caused by anything from a low fluid level or a band that is in need of adjustment to an internal transmission seal or clutch pack that is failing. Again, sooner rather than later is the right time to get it checked out. A neutral like condition on a brisk acceleration from a stop or when going around a turn. This is a clear sign of a low fluid condition. Remember, unlike an engine where it may be normal for some oil to be consumed over time, if a transmission is low on fluid it is leaking.

4) Burning odors. A burnt odor can be a sign of a transmission that is overheating or is leaking fluid onto the exhaust. This needs to be addressed immediately- if engine oil or transmission fluid drips onto a hot rods exhaust it could catch on fire.

5) Check engine light. Today’s transmissions are computer controlled and a check engine light can be an indication of a trans problem, even if you don’t have a drivability symptom yet. Modern automobile computers are extremely sensitive and can detect a transmission slip or malfunction that would be imperceptible to the driver. The light comes on to tell you that something is wrong somewhere- pay heed to it and get your car diagnosed now!

6) Transmission Slipping. Slipping is a condition where the engine is revving but full power is not getting to the wheels. Slipping can be caused by a variety of transmission malfunctions- all of which should be checked ASAP.

7) Rough shifting and wrong gear starts. A hard shift or wrong gear start either by itself or in conjunction with a check engine light may be a sign that your transmission is in a computer commanded “limp in” mode. This can be triggered by your vehicle’s computer when it detects a transmission fault. The reason for this computer strategy is to let the driver know that there is a problem and to help protect the transmission from further damage while it has “limped” to a shop to be diagnosed.

While we often fall into the trap of hoping that problems with our vehicles will somehow go away or fix themselves, rarely does it work out that way. Paying attention to and addressing your vehicle’s small problems before they turn into larger ones can often help you to avoid costly transmission repairs or one of our transmissions.

GotTransmissions.com @ 866-320-1182



Want to choose the best rebuilt transmission supplier?

I’m not going to sit here and try to convince you that GotTransmissions.com has the best transmissions for sale in the world at the best prices in the world. What is more important is what type of ethics and how many referrals they can prove. There is usually a lot more going on behind the scenes to a successful business than just good prices.

That is where the best companies outperform everybody else. Once a potential client calls the supplier and talks to a pro who knows the ‘transmission business’ and makes said client feel comfortable right off the bat, a relationship is forming. This client is now a fan of said company, making their confidence level high. That is what we want, we want to feel confident that your hard earned money is well spent.

Most of our clients buy a (example) Honda Civic rebuilt transmission from us, meaning GotTransmissions.com because they feel very confident in the product. Our client was treated fair and honest and received the proper product and a good nationwide warranty.

The best transmission suppliers have spent years building their reputations by supplying excellent transmissions for sale. The warranties are nationwide and in many cases last for 2 to 4 years.

What does all of this mean? It means that when you call and ask for a rebuilt transmission for sale for your car or truck that you will get that. GotTransmissions.com makes sure every transmission they sell is fully pre-tested for performance and reliability. They also check the VIN off the car or truck the engine came out of and run it through CarFax to see if there were any undisclosed transmission problems in the past.

The transmissions are fully rebuilt or remanufactured. Top notch remanufacturing companies have the best tools and cleaning equipment for rebuilding transmissions. They also send their technicians to schools on a regular basis to keep them up to date on anything new. It’s absolutely necessary to keep up to date on the latest transmission rebuilding news and updates as fast as things change nowadays.

They don’t want problems with the sold transmissions to create more inconvenience for their clients. They want their clients to have a good experience. When you combine good business ethics with excellent quality rebuilt or used transmissions, you have a recipe for success. Call GotTransmissions.com @ 866-320-1182.



Transmission Components: What makes a good torque converter?

Dependability concerns in choosing a torque converter – Regardless of the reason for buying a torque converter, an educated buyer should look for several features in the product one is considering purchasing in order to assure that both the transmission and torque converter have nice long lives.

Furnace brazed fins – greatly improves the strength characteristics of the fins. The furnace brazing causes the housing and fins to move and act integrally as one unit. This greatly reduces the amount of flex, which causes fins to bend and break. Also, the more rigid the fins stay while under pressure, the more consistent the behavior of the torque converter.

Needle bearings – properly selected and installed bearings withstand more pressure and provide less internal drag (drag robs horsepower and increases heat) than can be achieved with OEM style thrust washers. Thrust washers also tend to flake off material adding to contamination in the system (the transmission/torque converter hydraulic system.)

Drive-ability concerns in choosing a torque converter -The only concern here is that you install the factory original part, which should come with your replacement transmission. Every transmission purchased from GotTransmissions.com, be it a remanufactured, rebuilt transmission have the correct, upgraded torque converter come with it.



Transmission Components: Torque Coverters and Stall Speed

Essentially speaking the torque converter in an automatic transmission takes the place of a clutch in a manual transmission. An explanation of stall speed will help you understand how it works. Read it carefully.

Stall speed — The rpm that a given torque converter (impeller) has to spin in order for it to overcome a given amount of load and begin moving the turbine. When referring to “how much stall will I get from this torque converter”, it means how fast (rpm) must the torque converter spin to generate enough fluid force on the turbine to overcome the resting inertia of the vehicle at wide open throttle. Load originates from two places (1) From the torque imparted on the torque converter by the engine via the crankshaft. (This load varies over rpm, i.e. torque curve, and is directly affected by atmosphere, fuel and engine conditions.) (2) From inertia, the resistance of the vehicle to acceleration, which places a load on the torque converter through the drive train. This can be thought of as how difficult the drive train is to rotate with the vehicle at rest, and is affected by car weight, amount of gear reduction and tire size, ability of tire to stay adhered to ground and stiffness of chassis. (Does the car move as one entity or does it flex so much that not all the weight is transferred during initial motion?)

Another point concerning engine torque is that we are only concerned with what we’ll call the “relevant range” of the engine torque curve when discussing initial stall speed. This means if our particular torque converter chosen has a design that should produce a stall speed in a range of say 2000 to 2600 rpm given the application then we would refer to this as the relevant range of our interest in the engine’s torque curve for this particular torque converter. In other words, only the torque characteristics of the engine torque in this rpm range will affect the amount of stall speed we actually observe. If we are using a high horsepower/high rpm engine that does not make much torque before 3000 rpm, it does not matter that the engine makes excellent torque over 3000 rpm if we are trying to use the torque converter in this example because its relevant range is 2000-2600 rpm and we would expect to see poor stall (2000 rpm or less) due to the poor torque produced by the engine in this range.

A torque converter does not function in a void by itself. The torque converter is an integral part of the total vehicle combination. While many vehicle combination’s and applications are very similar and it may seem obvious what the best torque converter selection is, it is normally a wise step to take a look at the intended application and choose the best torque converter for the particular application.

That is about the simplest terms I could put stall speed into. I hope you understand it, you may have to read it a few times. Realistically speaking, it took me several years before it even made any difference to me how a converter works. Now that I understand, it is not so complicated.

Remember, if you buy a rebuilt transmission from GotTransmissions.com, it will have a rebuilt torque converter with it.
Call 866-320-1182.

See Part-1 on Transmissions and Torque converters if you have not read that first..



Transmission Components: Torque Converters Part-1

Torque converter — a torque converter is an integral part of an automatic transmission, basically a fluid-coupling device that also acts as a torque multiplier during initial acceleration.

Courtesy of TCI

Courtesy of TCI

The torque converter consists of four primary components:

Cover — the cover (also referred to as a front) is the outside half of the housing toward the engine side from the weld line. The cover serves to attach the converter to the flywheel (engine) and contain the fluid. While the cover is not actively involved in the characteristics of the performance, it is important that the cover remain rigid under stress (torsional and thrust stress and the tremendous hydraulic pressure generated by the torque converter internally.)

Turbine , The turbine rides within the cover and is attached to the drive train via a spline fit to the input shaft of the transmission. When the turbine moves, the car moves.

Stator. The stator can be described as the “brain” of the torque converter, although the stator is by no means the sole determiner of converter function and characteristics. The stator, which changes fluid flow between the turbine and pump, is what makes a torque converter a torque converter (multiplier) and not strictly a fluid coupler.

With the stator removed, however, it will retain none of its torque multiplying effect. In order for the stator to function properly the sprag must work as designed: (1) It must hold the stator perfectly still (locked in place) while the converter is still in stall mode (slow relative turbine speed to the impeller pump speed) and (2) allow the stator to spin with the rest of the converter after the turbine speed approaches the pump speed. This allows for more efficient and less restrictive fluid flow.

The sprag is a one-way mechanical clutch mounted on races and fits inside the stator while the inner race splines onto the stator support of the transmission. The torque multiplier effect means that a vehicle equipped with an automatic transmission and torque converter will output more torque to the drive wheels than the engine is actually producing. This occurs while the converter is in its “stall mode” (when the turbine is spinning considerably slower than the pump) and during vehicle acceleration. Torque multiplication rapidly decreases until it reaches a ratio of 1:1 (no torque increase over crankshaft torque.) A typical torque converter will have a torque multiplication ratio in the area of 2.5:1. The main point to remember is that all properly functioning torque converters do indeed multiply torque during initial acceleration. The more drastic the change in fluid path caused by the stator from its “natural” return path, the higher the torque multiplication ratio a given converter will have. Torque multiplication does not occur with a manual transmission clutch and pressure plate; hence the need for heavy flywheels, very high numerical gear ratios, and high launch rpm. This is just a brief overview as the actual scenarios are endless.

Impeller pump. The impeller pump is the outside half of the converter on the transmission side of the weld line. Inside the impeller pump is a series of longitudinal fins, which, drive the fluid around its outside diameter into the turbine, since this component is welded to the cover, which is bolted to the flywheel. The size of the torque converter (and pump) and the number and shape of the fins all affect the characteristics of the converter. If long torque converter life is an objective, it is extremely important that the fins of the impeller pump are adequately reinforced against fatigue and the outside housing does not distort under stress.

To be continued…..GotTransmissions.com @ 866-320-1182. Call now for quality replacement transmissions. Join our free blog to continue learning more about transmission’s and torque converters.



Transmission Upgrades: Transmission Coolers Beat the Heat..

There’s More To Transmission Coolers Than You Think: It’s no secret that heat kills automatic transmissions. And in high-performance street-strip applications or commercial vehicles, the problem is especially acute. Small diameter torque converters coupled with stop-and-go traffic greatly increase the heat level in an automatic transmission. In most cases, the extra performance heat under the hood generated from stop and go driving in hot weather can have the same effect as heavy loads, and trailer towing.

How hot is too hot? The ideal operating temperature for automatic transmission fluid is between 175 and 225° F. At approximately 240° F, important additives in the ATF begin to cook and breakdown. The result is the formation of varnish inside the transmission. At approximately 260° F, internal transmission seals (which are typically manufactured from a polyacrylate material) begin to harden. The end results are leaks, both internal and external, simply because the seals lose their elasticity. At approximately 295° F, transmission clutch plates begin to slip because the oil is breaking down further. At approximately 315° F, seals and clutches effectively burn out. Carbon forms in the oil and for all intents and purposes, the transmission is junk. Just for your information, a typical transmission will die within 2000 miles if subjected to 300° F+ heat.

Perhaps the most common reason for transmission failure is overheating. The second most common reason for failure is related to the first reason. Lack of maintenance. Not changing burnt fluid ASAP, or never having your transmission serviced. Either way is a guaranteed recipe for failure.

If you have had a failure and already installed a replacement transmission, my recommendation is to have your favorite transmission shop install one for you. If you are in need of a remanufactured transmission because of overheating the transmission may I suggest GotTransmissions.com as the best source of transmissions in the continental US.

My tip for anyone with who has a car or truck. Invest in a transmission cooler, have it properly installed and eliminate a big time concern. And have your transmission serviced every year or 30,000 miles. Request Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid. If it is not available at the shop your at, go somewhere else..

GotTransmissions.com @ 866-320-1182.